![]() Otherwise, the monitor doesn't see the power coming in from the solar panel and will give inaccurate readings. * If you have a battery monitor such as a Link or Xantrex 1000 or 2000, it is important to connect the negative wires from the controller to the shunt of the battery monitor. It is simply taped on to the top of the battery. * The optional temperature sensor is shown to the left of the larger house battery bank. This is easily remedied by flipping the switch thus disconnecting the solar panel. It sees the sum of the battery charge plus the panel output and senses the batteries are fully charged so goes into float mode prematurely. It has been reported that some smart regulators are confused by the power coming from the solar panel. The purpose of the switch is to turn off the panel should it interfere with the alternator output when the auxiliary engine is generator is running. * There is a switch in the positive wire between the solar panel and the controller. A few things to note in the diagram: * The two solar panels are wired in parallel using an MC4 T-branch connector, If one panel is shaded, the other panel will still provide full power to the controller. ![]() In this case, it is common to wire the positive wire to the common on the battery 1-2-both battery switch to select which battery bank is to be charged. Most solar controllers are single output so charge only one battery bank. The wiring diagram below is taken from our dual output controller manual and illustrates the basic wiring required for a two panel system, a dual output controller and two battery banks. It is typically single conductor and the insulation is. * Solar Wire - While most any wire can be used in a solar system, solar wire is designed for maximum conductivity and is well insulated with a UV resistant cover. A temperature sensor is only useful for systems with larger solar arrays as smaller solar systems do not provide sufficient power to over heat the batteries. If the batteries are heating up due to heavy charging, the sensor signals the controller and the controller reduces the charge current appropriately. * Temperature Sensor - This device is connected to the controller and senses the temperature of the battery bank. Controllers designed for residential and commercial (lighting) use are generally overkill and not well suited for marine applications. Controllers are sized by their amperage capacity. The purpose of a controller is to prevent batteries from being overcharged, apply the optimal charging current to the battery bank and prevent current from back flowing from the batteries to the solar panel at night. * Solar Controller - Except for small trickle charge systems, all solar systems should have a solar controller. These connectors are easily disconnected. Most solar panels come with MC4 connectors attached to 3 foot solar wire pigtail coming from the panel junction box. First, the definition of a few terms: * MC4 Connector - A water proof connector used in solar wiring. In this blog I will walk you through the wiring process for our dual output controller step by step. This can appear to be a daunting task for those new to the world of solar but it is actually quite easy and straight forward. We are often asked questions about how to wire a solar system.
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